Story legend

Crane Street is located in the northwestern corner of Xinhuai Qinhuai River, south from Jiqing Road, north to crane bridge. As the name implies, the origin of this street name is related to the beautiful and noble crane, and its moving legends are widely circulated among the people. A long time ago, this area lived with many people, most of whom weaving Yun Brocade. The mother and son of one family, although dexterous, can only rely on the bricks to get their brocade brocade materials after they have obtained the brocade materials because they often provide meager incomes to the poor. The seven fairies in heaven were touched by the industriousness and goodness of both mother and son, sending two beautiful cranes and flew a few times before the weaving loom of both mother and son. Since then, weaving brocade materials continue to appear on the loom every day. Mother and son no longer have to receive materials from the east, the days are getting better off. The owner saw them only out of brocade, no material, brocade weaving more beautiful than the original, very strange, then sent to visit, the mother and son humorous, the crane fly truth to speak out. The owner learned that the news, suddenly bad news, with steward came to the mother and child home, pretending to greet the warmth. Taking advantage of the mother and son did not pay attention, look toward the loom, pull the warp, desperately dragged out. Suddenly, when the warp was over, a pair of beautiful cranes flew off the end of the wire and pecked a few hard on the heads of the owners and the butler, saving the weaving loom of both mother and son. Later, people called this street Crane Street.

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Receiving disciples ceremony

Nanjing Brocade Institute of the first-line weaver more than 200 people, but most are engaged in the assembly line weaving ordinary workers, to grasp Brocade “core technology” the backbone of the few and far between. Brocade Nanjing Brocade tips are based on oral traditions handed down from generation to generation. Ancient Brocade traditional confrontation ceremony is divided into six areas, followed by the worship patriarch, apprentice to change the mouth, the teacher disciplined, apprentice commitment, abbot plus body, mentoring mutual gifts. In accordance with the rules, the apprentice first to the teacher to give the traditional “six ceremony harness repair” – dried meat, celery, lotus seeds, red dates, longan, red beans. Master’s return is also 6 kinds of gold, gold thread, colorful thread, peacock feather, meaning draft, onion, celery.

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Origin of the name

The brocade Jin brocade character is a combination of the word “jin” and the word “silk”, and its name is ” “This is to say that Kam is a luxurious silk, which can only be worn by dignitaries in ancient times. Ming Zhao Zhen Yuan “for Li Gongji Yuan Shiyu (Yuan Keli) Constitution Vice”: “adults each claim said: ‘s count clever clever woman’s cooking, Dan Temple envy emptiness group care, Cloudy “Jiangnan is good, the machine won the Heavenly Creations, the peacock makeup flower cloud rotten, ice silkworm spit Fog empty, a new kind of small dragon.” Qing Dynasty poet Wu Meicun praise Yun Jin verse (poem “Brocade” does not mean a piece of cloth , It is not a noun).
Nanjing Ming Dynasty did not cloud the word, then entered the royal satin called library Kam, library satin and makeup flowers. The term “Brocade” originated from the “Brocade Brocade” of Nanjing during the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty. Since the late Qing Dynasty, the term “Brocade Brocade” has been used in the production of goods and in the industry. The earliest written records were from the “Quarterly Journal of Industry and Commerce” in Nanjing, the Republic of China. Because of its exquisite materials, weaving fine, elegant and colorful pattern colors, like the sky like the magnificent clouds, Fung its rich and luxurious, gorgeous as Yunxia, ​​so called “Brocade”, because only Nanjing production, it is called “Nanjing Brocade” .

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Receiving ceremony

Nanjing Brocade Institute of the first-line weaver more than 200 people, but most are engaged in the assembly line weaving ordinary workers, to grasp Brocade “core technology” the backbone of the few and far between. Brocade Nanjing Brocade tips are based on oral traditions handed down from generation to generation. Ancient Brocade traditional confrontation ceremony is divided into six areas, followed by the worship patriarch, apprentice to change the mouth, the teacher disciplined, apprentice commitment, abbot plus body, mentoring mutual gifts. In accordance with the rules, the apprentice first to the teacher to give the traditional “six ceremony harness repair” – dried meat, celery, lotus seeds, red dates, longan, red beans. Master’s return is also 6 kinds of gold, gold thread, colorful thread, peacock feather, meaning draft, onion, celery.

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Main uses

Nanjing Brocade is Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties royal robes, crowned clothes (such as woven gold peacock feather makeup material, makeup satin robes, twelve regiment dragon robes, etc.), the officials of the doctor’s class expensive Women’s clothing, designed for the court Royal or reward heroic things (such as dark green makeup gauze Python clothing, the Ming Dynasty green flower python python dress, camel Lotus Lin Fengsai makeup satin skirt, etc.), the palace fabric, and Civil atrocities, festive, wedding apparel and other areas of application.
After 1949, Nanjing Yunjin not only exported high-end apparel fabrics and costumes for ethnic minorities and performed costumes, but also developed new suit varieties such as Yunjin rugs, cushions, quilts, handbags, vests, ties, hanging screens, cell phone covers , Table flag, brocade pen, business card boxes and painting framed, travel souvenirs, foreign trade and other daily necessities, or for mutual gifts or personal collection, decoration.

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Cultural aesthetics

First, brocade clothing reflects the imperial power and the feudal society, a strict hierarchy.
Brocade is designed for the emperor will phase, princess princess who do costumes, has a distinctive palace culture mark. Divine sovereignty is a political theory of feudal monarchy. Emperors of the past life “real dragon emperor”, ordered by the heaven, ruled sentient beings. Therefore, the emperor’s dress algae ornaments, apparel, a lot of use of animal “dragon” image. Beijing Imperial Palace Museum collection of the Emperor Yongzheng brocade Zhao Fu, satin on the satin, on the chest, back, shoulders woven flowers Pomona, waist line five, Second, the dragon four; Phi collar dragon two sleeves are one of the dragon; Tong colorful colorful clouds, the next eight Po flat water, sea water cliff. In addition to robes on the robes, but I only respect the emperor, but also a metaphor, “unifying the mountains and rivers” and “all things uplift” moral. Civil and military officials dress has a strict hierarchical differences, civil and military in the Ming Dynasty official uniform, according to the official product of different grades, different color patterns. Dabong Hongpao, medium green, green robe, small official Tan and brown green robe. Flowers are also sub-size, small official pattern. The more obvious difference is the sign of complement, Wenzhuwu beast, one each chest and back.
The second is the cloud pattern designed to meet the royal love and demand.
Brocade is for royal use, therefore Brocade design must meet the royal family’s love and demand, its full and abundance of pattern layout, gorgeous color texture, magnificent, forming the unique style Brocade. Imperial robes coronets clothing, princess Phoenix clothing, Huaxia Xia , palace curtain draperies, chameleon robes, military and civilian officials complement service, court production and cushions and other royal tribute, decorative patterns almost “plans will be intended, Italian auspicious.”
Third, Brocade pattern is also integrated into the aesthetic preferences and fun of the people.
Brocade from the creation of ordinary people, therefore, Brocade pattern also skillfully into the common people’s aesthetic preferences and fun. The cognition of all people in the world, the longing for and looking forward to a better life, are also integrated into various vivid patterns and ever-changing colors. For example, draw a coin under the bat mouth called “blessing in front,” spreading some copper on the brocade called “bright future.” Nanjing Brocade can be said that the Chinese traditional auspicious patterns.

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Research Institute

Brocade Research Institute was founded in 1957, is the first new Chinese arts and Crafts Institute, as the only China brocade professional research institutions, bear the historical responsibility of brocade inheritance and protection. Nanjing brocade brocade China Institute is a research and development and production of professional institutions, is also the Nanjing brocade to the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage of mankind and the main unit. 2009 Nanjing brocade Research Institute by the State Quality Inspection Administration approval for the first use of geographical indications and national enterprises, approved by the Ministry of culture intangible cultural heritage protection production demonstration base.

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The color classification of brocade

Use the color names of brocade, very rich. Such as the Ming and Qing two generations of Jiangning Textile Bureau official use of color names, to explore from the relevant archival materials, combined with the material handed down to control identification, can compile a list of names is very rich and has the characteristics of traditional ethnic brocade color chromatography. After the end of the Qing Dynasty, the folk color brocade weaving industry used about dozens of ten.
Reddish orange series
Belong to the red and orange red, red, the Zhu Hong, white, pink, pink, pink, red, southern red persimmon, red princess, Indian red, red bean, honey, gray coral, red sauce etc..
Yellow green line
Belong to the yellow and green system is yellow, yellow, yellow, yellow, auramine, sunflower, apricot yellow, fragrant incense, color, bronze, chestnut shell, snuff, Tibet, green, green, camel wide bud green, green, light green, dark green pine, Qiu Xiang etc..
Purple purple system
Belong to the blue and purple blue, sapphire blue, a system of royal blue, turquoise blue, blue, blue, teal, azurite, Gu Yue, January, Jiaoyue, huse, iron grey, grey, silver grey, grey, grey, purple, violet, grape purple sauce, sauce, sauce, Beijing Lu jujube paste, paste ink.

 

The origin of names

Brocade “Jin”, is a combination of “gold” and “silk”, “post – mining” Silk: “Jin, kim. The price of work is golden. Therefore, only respected people have to take clothes.” It is said that Jin is a luxury precious silk in ancient times, only high officials and noble lords could afford it. Ming Zhao Zhenyuan “Li Yuan Shi Yu (Gongshi offering Keli yuan Zi)”: “every adult Xianfu said:” the ministry can sigh cooking, as a group of Gu Xian Temple empty, no Guizhi Shoushan Geng Connaught, Jiong wild brocade legs. “”
“The good, the loom excelling, peacock brocade makeup flowers rotten, spit fog Xiao Feng ice silkworm, new small dragon group.” Is the Qing Dynasty poet Wu Meicun’s poem (a poem in praise of brocade brocade “does not refer to a piece of cloth, it is used as a noun).
The Ming Dynasty is not the word of Nanjing brocade, then entered the Royal Palace satin, satin and makeup flower called tinselled brocade. The word comes from the brocade, the Qing Dynasty Nanjing brocade weaving “, since the late Qing Dynasty was a commodity production,” Brocade “name in the industry, industry and Commerce semimonthly the earliest written records from the Republic of Nanjing”. Because of its sophisticated materials, fine workmanship, rich colors and elegant pattern, like the clouds of heaven like the magnificent, splendid splendid Feng, such as clouds, it is called “Brocade”, because only the production of Nanjing, so called “Nanjing brocade”.

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The history of brocade

The production and development of Nanjing Brocade is closely related to the city history of Nanjing. The silk industry in Nanjing can be traced back to the period of Dongwu (222 AD – 280 AD).
Eastern Jin Dynasty (AD 317 – 420 years) the end of the year, the general Liu Yu Northern Expedition, off Qin, the Changan hundred workers all moved to the country are built Kang (now Nanjing), which accounted for a large proportion of brocade craftsmen. After the brocade brook in the brocade craftsmen inherited the Han Dynasty, Cao Wei, the Western Jin Dynasty and the six pre-national minority brocade skills.
Eastern Jin Yi Hee thirteen years (AD 417) The Eastern Jin Dynasty in Jiankang set up specialized management brocade official – Kam Department, is seen as the birth of Nanjing Yunjin logo.
The beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, brocade has been for the Royal clothing special supplies.
Ming dynasty brocade process mature and perfect, and the formation of Nanjing silk jacquard brocade local characteristics.
Qing Dynasty in Nanjing with “Jiangning Weaving Department”, “Dream of Red Mansions” Cao Xueqin’s grandfather Cao Yin, Jiang Ning had been woven for 20 years. This period of brocade variety, pattern solemn, colorful, on behalf of the history of Nanjing brocade weaving process of the highest achievements. Nanjing Yunjiang weaving heyday has more than 30,000 looms, nearly 30 million people and related industries for the living, was the largest handicraft industry in Nanjing.
After 1949, the government has invested tens of millions of dollars for the restoration and protection of brocade, Nanjing City, Yun Jin Institute has also successfully copied the scientific and technological achievements in the 1970s, Changsha, Hunan Mawangdui Han tombs unearthed “plain yarn”, Beijing Ling Dingling unearthed Ming Wanli emperor “woven gold peacock feathers flower yarn robes” and so on, but the brocade is still facing the successor of the situation, the country really understand the brocade technology, but 50 people.
Qing Dynasty makeup satin
In 1954, in order to rescue the endangered Nanjing Brocade, “Brocade Research Working Group” was established.
In 1957, the Jiangsu provincial government approved the establishment of “Nanjing Brocade Institute”, which is the only one in China set research, production, display, sales in one of the brocade professional institutions.
1979 to the development of 15 processing points, 97 looms, processing more than 300 people, but also the development of lost many years to restore the traditional varieties of makeup Luo Luo, makeup yarn, makeup silk and so on. From the 1970s to the beginning of the 21st century, Nanjing brocade researchers worked hard to restore the endangered Nanjing brocade weaving process, and collected and compiled the brocade and drawing, training artists, restored the lost varieties “double “Songs”, the “Song of the Peach”, the Ming Dynasty “makeup flower robe” and other precious cultural relics, and collection of collections More than 900 pieces of brocade material for the Nanjing Brocade research and development laid a good foundation.
In 2001, Nanjing Yunjin officially declared human oral and intangible heritage, ranking behind the guqin.
In 2004, with the support of the Nanjing municipal government, the establishment of the “Nanjing brocade museum”. From 2003 to 2005, Nanjing Brocade Institute produced “auspicious” brand Nanjing brocade were awarded the title of brand-name products in Nanjing and Jiangsu Province.
October 2005, Nanjing Brocade “auspicious” brand trademark was rated as well-known trademarks in Nanjing.
December 2005 Nanjing brocade research institute “auspicious” brand Nanjing brocade was Quality Supervision Bureau as the first to the international geographical indication (GI) organization recommended 30 geographical indications products, become China’s first recognized by the international authority of the organization International Geographical Indications. Nanjing Institute of brocade all retains the history of the flower technology, has successfully copied the Ming Ding Ling unearthed Wanli emperor over shoulder dragon makeup yarn woven into a robe. Since 1979, the copy of the robe and the show has reached more than 100 pieces.
In January 2006, the Brocade Institute was again commissioned by the Beijing Dingling Museum to copy a Ming Wanli Emperor’s robes.
May 20, 2006, Nanjing Yunmao wood machine hand-crafted by the State Council approved the inclusion of the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. National non – material cultural heritage project Nanjing Yun – wood woodworking hand – woven hand – woven technology representative of the successor of Nanjing Yunjin Institute of Zhu Feng, Zhou Shuangxi, and Jiangsu Han Tang brocade technology Jinwen. Provincial heritage of the master from the cloud of the old artist Zhu Feng Wu.
In 2009, according to the “Regulations on the Protection of Geographical Indication Products” Nanjing Brocade Research Institute was approved by the State Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine for the first batch of geographical indication enterprises, “Nanjing Brocade” to obtain the protection of geographical indications products.
In 2013, Nanjing only won the brocade of geographical indications protection of the brocade research institute “auspicious brand” brocade enabled special signs.
2013 “geographical indications products brocade” national standards held reanaliation demonstration, Nanjing Brocade Research Institute Co., Ltd. and other four standard drafting units to attend the “geographical indications products brocade” national standard implementation of the five years to sum up and evaluate the situation.

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